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Fastening aluminum fascia to wooden subfascia
Good alternative to wood fascia trimCut steel fascia board cover lengthwise?When is it necessary to paint a wooden fascia (barge) board?Name for wooden board that supports fascia, drip edge, soffit, and gutter?
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As I understand it, one should pre-drill the hole for the fastener to prevent dimpling.
- Should the Aluminum fascia be fastened with a nail or screw?
- What is the preferred spec for the fastener?
I am new at this so any lessons-learned or pitfalls to avoid are appreciated.
fascia
edited Mar 27 at 19:34
Machavity
8,22821941
asked Mar 27 at 13:07
gatorbackgatorback
7422722
add a comment |
As I understand it, one should pre-drill the hole for the fastener to prevent dimpling.
- Should the Aluminum fascia be fastened with a nail or screw?
- What is the preferred spec for the fastener?
I am new at this so any lessons-learned or pitfalls to avoid are appreciated.
fascia
edited Mar 27 at 19:34
Machavity
8,22821941
asked Mar 27 at 13:07
gatorbackgatorback
7422722
add a comment |
As I understand it, one should pre-drill the hole for the fastener to prevent dimpling.
- Should the Aluminum fascia be fastened with a nail or screw?
- What is the preferred spec for the fastener?
I am new at this so any lessons-learned or pitfalls to avoid are appreciated.
fascia
edited Mar 27 at 19:34
Machavity
8,22821941
asked Mar 27 at 13:07
gatorbackgatorback
7422722
As I understand it, one should pre-drill the hole for the fastener to prevent dimpling.
- Should the Aluminum fascia be fastened with a nail or screw?
- What is the preferred spec for the fastener?
I am new at this so any lessons-learned or pitfalls to avoid are appreciated.
fascia
fascia
edited Mar 27 at 19:34
Machavity
8,22821941
asked Mar 27 at 13:07
gatorbackgatorback
7422722
edited Mar 27 at 19:34
Machavity
8,22821941
asked Mar 27 at 13:07
gatorbackgatorback
7422722
edited Mar 27 at 19:34
Machavity
8,22821941
edited Mar 27 at 19:34
Machavity
8,22821941
edited Mar 27 at 19:34
Machavity
8,22821941
8,22821941
asked Mar 27 at 13:07
gatorbackgatorback
7422722
asked Mar 27 at 13:07
gatorbackgatorback
7422722
asked Mar 27 at 13:07
gatorbackgatorback
7422722
7422722
add a comment |
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
Fascia wraps should only be nailed on the bottom (horizontal) face if possible. Avoid nailing the vertical face except where the run terminates if you have a gap, and then use a single nail. Dimples in the vertical face are very difficult to avoid and show conspicuously in certain lighting conditions.
Most carpenters don't pre-drill, but it can be difficult to penetrate the metal if you're not skilled in upside-down nailing. Feel free to do so. You might even do it on the ground beforehand. Aim for the center of the face and every 16" to 24" or so.
Be sure to use corrosion-resistant nails in a matching color. Drive them just far enough to pull the wrap into position. When working with finish metal, gentle is the name of the game.
answered Mar 27 at 13:13
isherwoodisherwood
51.2k460131
Nailing from the bottom is to minimize the possibility of rain water penetrating the fascia and soaking the wood?
– gatorback
Mar 27 at 13:17
2
Well yes, but that's secondary to the reason I stated. Very little water will enter an occupied nail hole on a vertical surface under a properly installed drip edge.
– isherwood
Mar 27 at 13:18
1
Under is good so you don't get that discoloration from mild corrosion dripping down.
– Joe Fala
Mar 27 at 14:22
In the picture shown, there is a visible gap between the size of the facia and the wood sub-facia. Would pre-drilling and nailing still be recommended? I have found that sometimes you simply can't get facia that is of the right dimensions.
– Dan
Mar 27 at 15:28
1
Metal fascia should not be installed with such a gap. Doing so would result in weirdly bent metal or an odd gap between it and the soffit. If the subfascia+soffit height dimension is non-standard, the top edge of the fascia wrap should be trimmed as necessary so it fits snugly against the soffit.
– isherwood
Mar 27 at 15:43
add a comment |
The problem I've found is that most people in my area use narrow gauge (stainless?) nails on fascia, which do a poor job of holding over time. In my first house, I had a section begin to sag away from the boards over the garage. I noted rain was getting in and later, when my father-in-law and I pulled it back from the boards, we discovered the board had completely rotted out in places. After pulling maybe half the sheets off, we found the nails were sagging all around the house (in addition to some of the boards not being nailed flush to the tails of the rafters). Cost us some $50 in lumber and a good day of replacing bad or poorly attached boards.
When I put the fascia back up, I used #8 2" pan head stainless steel screws (the pan head is more important than the length, as I've used 1" without issue). Pre-drilled holes where the nails had been and the screws went in easily (don't cheat and try to power them in or you'll strip those softer screws out). The pan heads cover the holes pretty well, they suck-up to the wood, and they don't work their way out. Period. Those screws are probably still up there, along with all that wood we replaced.
The caveat here is that my fascia had a "drain gutter" so that water that did hit the substrate would roll down into there and fall out in the piece breaks. I would be less inclined to do this on fascia that doesn't allow the water to drain away from the boards. It's unclear if your fascia does that.
answered Mar 27 at 15:27
MachavityMachavity
8,22821941
add a comment |
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2 Answers
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active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
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Fascia wraps should only be nailed on the bottom (horizontal) face if possible. Avoid nailing the vertical face except where the run terminates if you have a gap, and then use a single nail. Dimples in the vertical face are very difficult to avoid and show conspicuously in certain lighting conditions.
Most carpenters don't pre-drill, but it can be difficult to penetrate the metal if you're not skilled in upside-down nailing. Feel free to do so. You might even do it on the ground beforehand. Aim for the center of the face and every 16" to 24" or so.
Be sure to use corrosion-resistant nails in a matching color. Drive them just far enough to pull the wrap into position. When working with finish metal, gentle is the name of the game.
answered Mar 27 at 13:13
isherwoodisherwood
51.2k460131
Nailing from the bottom is to minimize the possibility of rain water penetrating the fascia and soaking the wood?
– gatorback
Mar 27 at 13:17
2
Well yes, but that's secondary to the reason I stated. Very little water will enter an occupied nail hole on a vertical surface under a properly installed drip edge.
– isherwood
Mar 27 at 13:18
1
Under is good so you don't get that discoloration from mild corrosion dripping down.
– Joe Fala
Mar 27 at 14:22
In the picture shown, there is a visible gap between the size of the facia and the wood sub-facia. Would pre-drilling and nailing still be recommended? I have found that sometimes you simply can't get facia that is of the right dimensions.
– Dan
Mar 27 at 15:28
1
Metal fascia should not be installed with such a gap. Doing so would result in weirdly bent metal or an odd gap between it and the soffit. If the subfascia+soffit height dimension is non-standard, the top edge of the fascia wrap should be trimmed as necessary so it fits snugly against the soffit.
– isherwood
Mar 27 at 15:43
add a comment |
Fascia wraps should only be nailed on the bottom (horizontal) face if possible. Avoid nailing the vertical face except where the run terminates if you have a gap, and then use a single nail. Dimples in the vertical face are very difficult to avoid and show conspicuously in certain lighting conditions.
Most carpenters don't pre-drill, but it can be difficult to penetrate the metal if you're not skilled in upside-down nailing. Feel free to do so. You might even do it on the ground beforehand. Aim for the center of the face and every 16" to 24" or so.
Be sure to use corrosion-resistant nails in a matching color. Drive them just far enough to pull the wrap into position. When working with finish metal, gentle is the name of the game.
answered Mar 27 at 13:13
isherwoodisherwood
51.2k460131
Nailing from the bottom is to minimize the possibility of rain water penetrating the fascia and soaking the wood?
– gatorback
Mar 27 at 13:17
2
Well yes, but that's secondary to the reason I stated. Very little water will enter an occupied nail hole on a vertical surface under a properly installed drip edge.
– isherwood
Mar 27 at 13:18
1
Under is good so you don't get that discoloration from mild corrosion dripping down.
– Joe Fala
Mar 27 at 14:22
In the picture shown, there is a visible gap between the size of the facia and the wood sub-facia. Would pre-drilling and nailing still be recommended? I have found that sometimes you simply can't get facia that is of the right dimensions.
– Dan
Mar 27 at 15:28
1
Metal fascia should not be installed with such a gap. Doing so would result in weirdly bent metal or an odd gap between it and the soffit. If the subfascia+soffit height dimension is non-standard, the top edge of the fascia wrap should be trimmed as necessary so it fits snugly against the soffit.
– isherwood
Mar 27 at 15:43
add a comment |
Fascia wraps should only be nailed on the bottom (horizontal) face if possible. Avoid nailing the vertical face except where the run terminates if you have a gap, and then use a single nail. Dimples in the vertical face are very difficult to avoid and show conspicuously in certain lighting conditions.
Most carpenters don't pre-drill, but it can be difficult to penetrate the metal if you're not skilled in upside-down nailing. Feel free to do so. You might even do it on the ground beforehand. Aim for the center of the face and every 16" to 24" or so.
Be sure to use corrosion-resistant nails in a matching color. Drive them just far enough to pull the wrap into position. When working with finish metal, gentle is the name of the game.
answered Mar 27 at 13:13
isherwoodisherwood
51.2k460131
Fascia wraps should only be nailed on the bottom (horizontal) face if possible. Avoid nailing the vertical face except where the run terminates if you have a gap, and then use a single nail. Dimples in the vertical face are very difficult to avoid and show conspicuously in certain lighting conditions.
Most carpenters don't pre-drill, but it can be difficult to penetrate the metal if you're not skilled in upside-down nailing. Feel free to do so. You might even do it on the ground beforehand. Aim for the center of the face and every 16" to 24" or so.
Be sure to use corrosion-resistant nails in a matching color. Drive them just far enough to pull the wrap into position. When working with finish metal, gentle is the name of the game.
answered Mar 27 at 13:13
isherwoodisherwood
51.2k460131
answered Mar 27 at 13:13
isherwoodisherwood
51.2k460131
answered Mar 27 at 13:13
isherwoodisherwood
51.2k460131
answered Mar 27 at 13:13
isherwoodisherwood
51.2k460131
51.2k460131
Nailing from the bottom is to minimize the possibility of rain water penetrating the fascia and soaking the wood?
– gatorback
Mar 27 at 13:17
2
Well yes, but that's secondary to the reason I stated. Very little water will enter an occupied nail hole on a vertical surface under a properly installed drip edge.
– isherwood
Mar 27 at 13:18
1
Under is good so you don't get that discoloration from mild corrosion dripping down.
– Joe Fala
Mar 27 at 14:22
In the picture shown, there is a visible gap between the size of the facia and the wood sub-facia. Would pre-drilling and nailing still be recommended? I have found that sometimes you simply can't get facia that is of the right dimensions.
– Dan
Mar 27 at 15:28
1
Metal fascia should not be installed with such a gap. Doing so would result in weirdly bent metal or an odd gap between it and the soffit. If the subfascia+soffit height dimension is non-standard, the top edge of the fascia wrap should be trimmed as necessary so it fits snugly against the soffit.
– isherwood
Mar 27 at 15:43
add a comment |
Nailing from the bottom is to minimize the possibility of rain water penetrating the fascia and soaking the wood?
– gatorback
Mar 27 at 13:17
2
Well yes, but that's secondary to the reason I stated. Very little water will enter an occupied nail hole on a vertical surface under a properly installed drip edge.
– isherwood
Mar 27 at 13:18
1
Under is good so you don't get that discoloration from mild corrosion dripping down.
– Joe Fala
Mar 27 at 14:22
In the picture shown, there is a visible gap between the size of the facia and the wood sub-facia. Would pre-drilling and nailing still be recommended? I have found that sometimes you simply can't get facia that is of the right dimensions.
– Dan
Mar 27 at 15:28
1
Metal fascia should not be installed with such a gap. Doing so would result in weirdly bent metal or an odd gap between it and the soffit. If the subfascia+soffit height dimension is non-standard, the top edge of the fascia wrap should be trimmed as necessary so it fits snugly against the soffit.
– isherwood
Mar 27 at 15:43
Nailing from the bottom is to minimize the possibility of rain water penetrating the fascia and soaking the wood?
– gatorback
Mar 27 at 13:17
Nailing from the bottom is to minimize the possibility of rain water penetrating the fascia and soaking the wood?
– gatorback
Mar 27 at 13:17
2
2
Well yes, but that's secondary to the reason I stated. Very little water will enter an occupied nail hole on a vertical surface under a properly installed drip edge.
– isherwood
Mar 27 at 13:18
Well yes, but that's secondary to the reason I stated. Very little water will enter an occupied nail hole on a vertical surface under a properly installed drip edge.
– isherwood
Mar 27 at 13:18
1
1
Under is good so you don't get that discoloration from mild corrosion dripping down.
– Joe Fala
Mar 27 at 14:22
Under is good so you don't get that discoloration from mild corrosion dripping down.
– Joe Fala
Mar 27 at 14:22
In the picture shown, there is a visible gap between the size of the facia and the wood sub-facia. Would pre-drilling and nailing still be recommended? I have found that sometimes you simply can't get facia that is of the right dimensions.
– Dan
Mar 27 at 15:28
In the picture shown, there is a visible gap between the size of the facia and the wood sub-facia. Would pre-drilling and nailing still be recommended? I have found that sometimes you simply can't get facia that is of the right dimensions.
– Dan
Mar 27 at 15:28
1
1
Metal fascia should not be installed with such a gap. Doing so would result in weirdly bent metal or an odd gap between it and the soffit. If the subfascia+soffit height dimension is non-standard, the top edge of the fascia wrap should be trimmed as necessary so it fits snugly against the soffit.
– isherwood
Mar 27 at 15:43
Metal fascia should not be installed with such a gap. Doing so would result in weirdly bent metal or an odd gap between it and the soffit. If the subfascia+soffit height dimension is non-standard, the top edge of the fascia wrap should be trimmed as necessary so it fits snugly against the soffit.
– isherwood
Mar 27 at 15:43
add a comment |
The problem I've found is that most people in my area use narrow gauge (stainless?) nails on fascia, which do a poor job of holding over time. In my first house, I had a section begin to sag away from the boards over the garage. I noted rain was getting in and later, when my father-in-law and I pulled it back from the boards, we discovered the board had completely rotted out in places. After pulling maybe half the sheets off, we found the nails were sagging all around the house (in addition to some of the boards not being nailed flush to the tails of the rafters). Cost us some $50 in lumber and a good day of replacing bad or poorly attached boards.
When I put the fascia back up, I used #8 2" pan head stainless steel screws (the pan head is more important than the length, as I've used 1" without issue). Pre-drilled holes where the nails had been and the screws went in easily (don't cheat and try to power them in or you'll strip those softer screws out). The pan heads cover the holes pretty well, they suck-up to the wood, and they don't work their way out. Period. Those screws are probably still up there, along with all that wood we replaced.
The caveat here is that my fascia had a "drain gutter" so that water that did hit the substrate would roll down into there and fall out in the piece breaks. I would be less inclined to do this on fascia that doesn't allow the water to drain away from the boards. It's unclear if your fascia does that.
answered Mar 27 at 15:27
MachavityMachavity
8,22821941
add a comment |
The problem I've found is that most people in my area use narrow gauge (stainless?) nails on fascia, which do a poor job of holding over time. In my first house, I had a section begin to sag away from the boards over the garage. I noted rain was getting in and later, when my father-in-law and I pulled it back from the boards, we discovered the board had completely rotted out in places. After pulling maybe half the sheets off, we found the nails were sagging all around the house (in addition to some of the boards not being nailed flush to the tails of the rafters). Cost us some $50 in lumber and a good day of replacing bad or poorly attached boards.
When I put the fascia back up, I used #8 2" pan head stainless steel screws (the pan head is more important than the length, as I've used 1" without issue). Pre-drilled holes where the nails had been and the screws went in easily (don't cheat and try to power them in or you'll strip those softer screws out). The pan heads cover the holes pretty well, they suck-up to the wood, and they don't work their way out. Period. Those screws are probably still up there, along with all that wood we replaced.
The caveat here is that my fascia had a "drain gutter" so that water that did hit the substrate would roll down into there and fall out in the piece breaks. I would be less inclined to do this on fascia that doesn't allow the water to drain away from the boards. It's unclear if your fascia does that.
answered Mar 27 at 15:27
MachavityMachavity
8,22821941
add a comment |
The problem I've found is that most people in my area use narrow gauge (stainless?) nails on fascia, which do a poor job of holding over time. In my first house, I had a section begin to sag away from the boards over the garage. I noted rain was getting in and later, when my father-in-law and I pulled it back from the boards, we discovered the board had completely rotted out in places. After pulling maybe half the sheets off, we found the nails were sagging all around the house (in addition to some of the boards not being nailed flush to the tails of the rafters). Cost us some $50 in lumber and a good day of replacing bad or poorly attached boards.
When I put the fascia back up, I used #8 2" pan head stainless steel screws (the pan head is more important than the length, as I've used 1" without issue). Pre-drilled holes where the nails had been and the screws went in easily (don't cheat and try to power them in or you'll strip those softer screws out). The pan heads cover the holes pretty well, they suck-up to the wood, and they don't work their way out. Period. Those screws are probably still up there, along with all that wood we replaced.
The caveat here is that my fascia had a "drain gutter" so that water that did hit the substrate would roll down into there and fall out in the piece breaks. I would be less inclined to do this on fascia that doesn't allow the water to drain away from the boards. It's unclear if your fascia does that.
answered Mar 27 at 15:27
MachavityMachavity
8,22821941
The problem I've found is that most people in my area use narrow gauge (stainless?) nails on fascia, which do a poor job of holding over time. In my first house, I had a section begin to sag away from the boards over the garage. I noted rain was getting in and later, when my father-in-law and I pulled it back from the boards, we discovered the board had completely rotted out in places. After pulling maybe half the sheets off, we found the nails were sagging all around the house (in addition to some of the boards not being nailed flush to the tails of the rafters). Cost us some $50 in lumber and a good day of replacing bad or poorly attached boards.
When I put the fascia back up, I used #8 2" pan head stainless steel screws (the pan head is more important than the length, as I've used 1" without issue). Pre-drilled holes where the nails had been and the screws went in easily (don't cheat and try to power them in or you'll strip those softer screws out). The pan heads cover the holes pretty well, they suck-up to the wood, and they don't work their way out. Period. Those screws are probably still up there, along with all that wood we replaced.
The caveat here is that my fascia had a "drain gutter" so that water that did hit the substrate would roll down into there and fall out in the piece breaks. I would be less inclined to do this on fascia that doesn't allow the water to drain away from the boards. It's unclear if your fascia does that.
answered Mar 27 at 15:27
MachavityMachavity
8,22821941
edited Mar 27 at 16:35
answered Mar 27 at 15:27
MachavityMachavity
8,22821941
answered Mar 27 at 15:27
MachavityMachavity
8,22821941
answered Mar 27 at 15:27
MachavityMachavity
8,22821941
8,22821941
add a comment |
add a comment |
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-fascia
