What causes the vertical darker bands in my photo? Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara Planned maintenance scheduled April 17/18, 2019 at 00:00UTC (8:00pm US/Eastern) Proposal: Rules for *New* Photo Contest on Main SiteWhat causes these inconsistent dark bands in some of my photos from an indoor event?How does light quality vary between fluorescent (CFL) and incandescent?Two pictures with the same setting come out with different lightingWhy does my white picture have a blue hue?What is the correct way to describe better camera, aperture f/2.2 or f2.2?What does “12MP + 12MP Camera” mean in the specs of a mobile phone?
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What causes the vertical darker bands in my photo?
Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara
Planned maintenance scheduled April 17/18, 2019 at 00:00UTC (8:00pm US/Eastern)
Proposal: Rules for *New* Photo Contest on Main SiteWhat causes these inconsistent dark bands in some of my photos from an indoor event?How does light quality vary between fluorescent (CFL) and incandescent?Two pictures with the same setting come out with different lightingWhy does my white picture have a blue hue?What is the correct way to describe better camera, aperture f/2.2 or f2.2?What does “12MP + 12MP Camera” mean in the specs of a mobile phone?
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I was taking a picture of my class note with my mobile phone and after taking the snap, the photo appears to have some vertical darker bands.
The bands were moving horizontally from left to right when the camera lens were scanning the picture. When the shutter was clicked, the dark bands were captured. If observed carefully, there appears to be two dark bands.
What could have caused the dark bands?
mobile
New contributor
|
show 5 more comments
I was taking a picture of my class note with my mobile phone and after taking the snap, the photo appears to have some vertical darker bands.
The bands were moving horizontally from left to right when the camera lens were scanning the picture. When the shutter was clicked, the dark bands were captured. If observed carefully, there appears to be two dark bands.
What could have caused the dark bands?
mobile
New contributor
3
I am sorry, but at 300% magnification, I cannot see any black lines. Could it be that the transcoding eliminated it? Where, roughly, should I look for the lines?
– flolilo
21 hours ago
7
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
20 hours ago
18
They are not black.
– osullic
18 hours ago
2
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
16 hours ago
1
Possible duplicate of What causes these inconsistent dark bands in some of my photos from an indoor event?
– Michael C
1 hour ago
|
show 5 more comments
I was taking a picture of my class note with my mobile phone and after taking the snap, the photo appears to have some vertical darker bands.
The bands were moving horizontally from left to right when the camera lens were scanning the picture. When the shutter was clicked, the dark bands were captured. If observed carefully, there appears to be two dark bands.
What could have caused the dark bands?
mobile
New contributor
I was taking a picture of my class note with my mobile phone and after taking the snap, the photo appears to have some vertical darker bands.
The bands were moving horizontally from left to right when the camera lens were scanning the picture. When the shutter was clicked, the dark bands were captured. If observed carefully, there appears to be two dark bands.
What could have caused the dark bands?
mobile
mobile
New contributor
New contributor
edited 12 hours ago
Andrew T.
1195
1195
New contributor
asked 21 hours ago
Nilay GhoshNilay Ghosh
15116
15116
New contributor
New contributor
3
I am sorry, but at 300% magnification, I cannot see any black lines. Could it be that the transcoding eliminated it? Where, roughly, should I look for the lines?
– flolilo
21 hours ago
7
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
20 hours ago
18
They are not black.
– osullic
18 hours ago
2
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
16 hours ago
1
Possible duplicate of What causes these inconsistent dark bands in some of my photos from an indoor event?
– Michael C
1 hour ago
|
show 5 more comments
3
I am sorry, but at 300% magnification, I cannot see any black lines. Could it be that the transcoding eliminated it? Where, roughly, should I look for the lines?
– flolilo
21 hours ago
7
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
20 hours ago
18
They are not black.
– osullic
18 hours ago
2
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
16 hours ago
1
Possible duplicate of What causes these inconsistent dark bands in some of my photos from an indoor event?
– Michael C
1 hour ago
3
3
I am sorry, but at 300% magnification, I cannot see any black lines. Could it be that the transcoding eliminated it? Where, roughly, should I look for the lines?
– flolilo
21 hours ago
I am sorry, but at 300% magnification, I cannot see any black lines. Could it be that the transcoding eliminated it? Where, roughly, should I look for the lines?
– flolilo
21 hours ago
7
7
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
20 hours ago
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
20 hours ago
18
18
They are not black.
– osullic
18 hours ago
They are not black.
– osullic
18 hours ago
2
2
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
16 hours ago
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
16 hours ago
1
1
Possible duplicate of What causes these inconsistent dark bands in some of my photos from an indoor event?
– Michael C
1 hour ago
Possible duplicate of What causes these inconsistent dark bands in some of my photos from an indoor event?
– Michael C
1 hour ago
|
show 5 more comments
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
The darker vertical bands? I would ascribe them to a synchronization between sensor capture and a slightly flickering lighting (one aspect of the "rolling shutter" problem). Is the exposure time of the picture roughly three periods(*) of your local current frequency (1/15-1/20 of a second)?
(*) At least three bands in the picture, beside the two obvious ones, there is one along the left border.
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
18 hours ago
add a comment |
To expand on xenoids answer.
Most phone cameras use what is known as a "rolling shutter", the exposure starts and ends at slightly different times for different parts of the image. This makes the sensor cheaper because the end of the exposure can be defined by the readout process rather than needing extra electronics to capture the image at the end of the exposure.
This causes time-variations in the lighting level to be translated to spacial variations in the resulting image.
So if your light source varies in intensity at a speed a few times faster than the sensor readout time, you will get bars like this. How dark the bars are will depend on the exposure time the camera is using. Pointing your camera directly at the problem light will likely result in a shorter exposure time and hence stronger bars.
Many (but not all) flourescent and LED lights flicker at twice mains frequency, which tends to be in the same ballpark as sensor readout times.
add a comment |
As the other answers note, this is due to a beat frequency between the readout frequency and the flicker frequency of the lighting.
You should check that the country/region of your phone is properly set. Also check the camera app for a power line rate in the settings.
A properly designed phone or video camera is able to compensate for lighting flicker by ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate, 50 or 60 Hz. This is called an anti-banding filter. Conversely, if the phone is set with the wrong power line rate, it will make the problem worse by forcing a 5/6 or 6/5 factor.
New contributor
add a comment |
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
The darker vertical bands? I would ascribe them to a synchronization between sensor capture and a slightly flickering lighting (one aspect of the "rolling shutter" problem). Is the exposure time of the picture roughly three periods(*) of your local current frequency (1/15-1/20 of a second)?
(*) At least three bands in the picture, beside the two obvious ones, there is one along the left border.
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
18 hours ago
add a comment |
The darker vertical bands? I would ascribe them to a synchronization between sensor capture and a slightly flickering lighting (one aspect of the "rolling shutter" problem). Is the exposure time of the picture roughly three periods(*) of your local current frequency (1/15-1/20 of a second)?
(*) At least three bands in the picture, beside the two obvious ones, there is one along the left border.
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
18 hours ago
add a comment |
The darker vertical bands? I would ascribe them to a synchronization between sensor capture and a slightly flickering lighting (one aspect of the "rolling shutter" problem). Is the exposure time of the picture roughly three periods(*) of your local current frequency (1/15-1/20 of a second)?
(*) At least three bands in the picture, beside the two obvious ones, there is one along the left border.
The darker vertical bands? I would ascribe them to a synchronization between sensor capture and a slightly flickering lighting (one aspect of the "rolling shutter" problem). Is the exposure time of the picture roughly three periods(*) of your local current frequency (1/15-1/20 of a second)?
(*) At least three bands in the picture, beside the two obvious ones, there is one along the left border.
edited 20 hours ago
answered 21 hours ago
xenoidxenoid
4,6471722
4,6471722
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
18 hours ago
add a comment |
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
18 hours ago
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
18 hours ago
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
18 hours ago
add a comment |
To expand on xenoids answer.
Most phone cameras use what is known as a "rolling shutter", the exposure starts and ends at slightly different times for different parts of the image. This makes the sensor cheaper because the end of the exposure can be defined by the readout process rather than needing extra electronics to capture the image at the end of the exposure.
This causes time-variations in the lighting level to be translated to spacial variations in the resulting image.
So if your light source varies in intensity at a speed a few times faster than the sensor readout time, you will get bars like this. How dark the bars are will depend on the exposure time the camera is using. Pointing your camera directly at the problem light will likely result in a shorter exposure time and hence stronger bars.
Many (but not all) flourescent and LED lights flicker at twice mains frequency, which tends to be in the same ballpark as sensor readout times.
add a comment |
To expand on xenoids answer.
Most phone cameras use what is known as a "rolling shutter", the exposure starts and ends at slightly different times for different parts of the image. This makes the sensor cheaper because the end of the exposure can be defined by the readout process rather than needing extra electronics to capture the image at the end of the exposure.
This causes time-variations in the lighting level to be translated to spacial variations in the resulting image.
So if your light source varies in intensity at a speed a few times faster than the sensor readout time, you will get bars like this. How dark the bars are will depend on the exposure time the camera is using. Pointing your camera directly at the problem light will likely result in a shorter exposure time and hence stronger bars.
Many (but not all) flourescent and LED lights flicker at twice mains frequency, which tends to be in the same ballpark as sensor readout times.
add a comment |
To expand on xenoids answer.
Most phone cameras use what is known as a "rolling shutter", the exposure starts and ends at slightly different times for different parts of the image. This makes the sensor cheaper because the end of the exposure can be defined by the readout process rather than needing extra electronics to capture the image at the end of the exposure.
This causes time-variations in the lighting level to be translated to spacial variations in the resulting image.
So if your light source varies in intensity at a speed a few times faster than the sensor readout time, you will get bars like this. How dark the bars are will depend on the exposure time the camera is using. Pointing your camera directly at the problem light will likely result in a shorter exposure time and hence stronger bars.
Many (but not all) flourescent and LED lights flicker at twice mains frequency, which tends to be in the same ballpark as sensor readout times.
To expand on xenoids answer.
Most phone cameras use what is known as a "rolling shutter", the exposure starts and ends at slightly different times for different parts of the image. This makes the sensor cheaper because the end of the exposure can be defined by the readout process rather than needing extra electronics to capture the image at the end of the exposure.
This causes time-variations in the lighting level to be translated to spacial variations in the resulting image.
So if your light source varies in intensity at a speed a few times faster than the sensor readout time, you will get bars like this. How dark the bars are will depend on the exposure time the camera is using. Pointing your camera directly at the problem light will likely result in a shorter exposure time and hence stronger bars.
Many (but not all) flourescent and LED lights flicker at twice mains frequency, which tends to be in the same ballpark as sensor readout times.
answered 16 hours ago
Peter GreenPeter Green
60447
60447
add a comment |
add a comment |
As the other answers note, this is due to a beat frequency between the readout frequency and the flicker frequency of the lighting.
You should check that the country/region of your phone is properly set. Also check the camera app for a power line rate in the settings.
A properly designed phone or video camera is able to compensate for lighting flicker by ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate, 50 or 60 Hz. This is called an anti-banding filter. Conversely, if the phone is set with the wrong power line rate, it will make the problem worse by forcing a 5/6 or 6/5 factor.
New contributor
add a comment |
As the other answers note, this is due to a beat frequency between the readout frequency and the flicker frequency of the lighting.
You should check that the country/region of your phone is properly set. Also check the camera app for a power line rate in the settings.
A properly designed phone or video camera is able to compensate for lighting flicker by ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate, 50 or 60 Hz. This is called an anti-banding filter. Conversely, if the phone is set with the wrong power line rate, it will make the problem worse by forcing a 5/6 or 6/5 factor.
New contributor
add a comment |
As the other answers note, this is due to a beat frequency between the readout frequency and the flicker frequency of the lighting.
You should check that the country/region of your phone is properly set. Also check the camera app for a power line rate in the settings.
A properly designed phone or video camera is able to compensate for lighting flicker by ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate, 50 or 60 Hz. This is called an anti-banding filter. Conversely, if the phone is set with the wrong power line rate, it will make the problem worse by forcing a 5/6 or 6/5 factor.
New contributor
As the other answers note, this is due to a beat frequency between the readout frequency and the flicker frequency of the lighting.
You should check that the country/region of your phone is properly set. Also check the camera app for a power line rate in the settings.
A properly designed phone or video camera is able to compensate for lighting flicker by ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate, 50 or 60 Hz. This is called an anti-banding filter. Conversely, if the phone is set with the wrong power line rate, it will make the problem worse by forcing a 5/6 or 6/5 factor.
New contributor
New contributor
answered 9 hours ago
user71659user71659
1011
1011
New contributor
New contributor
add a comment |
add a comment |
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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-mobile
3
I am sorry, but at 300% magnification, I cannot see any black lines. Could it be that the transcoding eliminated it? Where, roughly, should I look for the lines?
– flolilo
21 hours ago
7
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
20 hours ago
18
They are not black.
– osullic
18 hours ago
2
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
16 hours ago
1
Possible duplicate of What causes these inconsistent dark bands in some of my photos from an indoor event?
– Michael C
1 hour ago